On the surface, Tokyo is overwhelming at first. Avenues lined with neon-clad buildings give the major areas a futuristic look while back alleys and shotengai give the place either a run-down look or a local feel. During rush periods, Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Stations take most foreigners, even those of us from big cities, to a new level of survival-of-the-fittest living; We learn quickly that nobody stops for anyone else. I’ve gotta get to my train so don’t get in my way or I’ll run your ass down. Finding your way around the city by train or bus is quite a challenge for most first-timers and if not for the concern of a friendly, English-speaking local or two, many would end up spending an entire day lost. Indeed, many have.

Of course, there’s the exciting side, too. Restaurants, bars, entertainment centers are more than abundant. Indeed, Tokyo is like many of its citizens; It works all day long, and plays at night. You could say this city at night is a playground for adults. We can see just how much everyone has played when we ride the last train home. Even on weeknights, there’s no shortage of drunken slobs either passed out on a train seat or the floor. The ones who’ve vomited on themselves are get a wide berth while the rest just get stepped over. While many of us are shocked by these images, it’s part of life here in The Big Mikan. Even the latest Ukon no Chikara television commercial has a salaryman trying to wake his passed-out senior up in order to board the last train. They miss it, but fortunately there’s Ukon no Chikara (an energy drink here in the land of the rising sun) to help power them through the next day at work.

When I first arrived in Tokyo, I felt as if I had looked into the abyss. Seeing the hordes of people everywhere, being bombarded with imagery that was a mixture of sexyness, cuteness, and childlike innocence, hearing the endless noise of announcements, music blaring from pachinko parlors and entertainment centers, and groups of friends chattering away incessantly about shockingly trivial things, I was a bit daunted, even though my excitement wouldn’t let me be held back from exploring and conquering. I felt I had arrived in Babylon, and I was pleased.

People say Tokyo, unlike Osaka or Fukuoka, has no soul. At first, I thought that was true. I mean, compared to pretty much anywhere else in Japan, Tokyoites can be quite cold and unfriendly to strangers, aggressive and rude in public, and too reserved for my tastes. Well, after having lived here for several years, I can understand how people become this way. It’s definitely one of the challenges of living in Tokyo to maintain not only your sanity, but the true essence of who you are. Too many here just seem to give in and go through life as just another number. However, I’ve met enough good people here and have made enough good friends to realize that that Tokyo does have a heart.

When you spend enough time exploring Tokyo, you come to realize that Tokyo is unlike any other city in the world. You get to know its good side and its bad side. You get a feel for what it means to belong to this giant metropolis. You may even come to think of Tokyo as your friend, one that is always thinking about you and is ready to show you a good time, even when you’re down or discouraged.

Having lived in two other Japanese cities before I moved to Tokyo, at first I found myself at odds with the place. But, the first time I traveled from Tokyo to another city on vacation, I found myself really missing this town. Now I know that I absolutely wouldn’t want to live in any other big city in the world. Not only has it grown on me, it’s become a part of me, much as I’ve become a part of it. Indeed, no matter who you are, if you spend a year in Tokyo, Tokyo will be with you for the rest of your life, whether you like it or not. I firmly believe this is true.

I don’t know if Tokyo will be my home forever, but for now, it’s the only place for me.

The preceding was submitted as part of the Japan Blog Matsuri:

closeAuthor: billywest Name:
Email: billywest@rocketmail.com
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About: a resident of South Tokyo living on the Toyoko line, soon to relocate to Shibuya off the Keio line.See Authors Posts (18)